70 years ago: Hong Kong's wartime diaries

Goodwin moved easily over several miles along a level highway that followed the shore, until around midnight he came to a point where the road turned inland and crossed the railway lines. There was a sentry on guard, so he went down to the sea and waded for some distance before returning to the road. The road climbed as it went inland, and there was heavy rainfall.  It took some effort for him to reach the summit of the road, where he rested, enjoying a view of Tolo Harbour and the hundreds of fishing boats, brightly lit for fishing at night.

He had an easy descent towards Tai Po, and decided to fill his almost empty water-bottle.  He could hear running water, but was not able to find an entrance until the fireflies came to his aid.

"I noticed many fireflies passing me, going a short distance along the road and then turning in towards the water. So many were flying the same course that I decided to follow them, and sure enough, they were turning in over a track that led to a waterfall."

That proved to be the last location where he would be able to collect drinking water as he continued on the road towards Taipo Market. Dawn was approaching as he came to a railway crossing, and decided to climb to a level spur some two hundred feet above the road. Perfect cover there convinced him that he would rest for the hours of daylight in that location. He had a perfect view of what was happening below him, and planned ahead for his progress after dark.  He noted that there was a sentry post at road junction, where all vehicles, and pedestrians were searched, but there was no sentry at the rail crossing.  He would take the rail route. He could not see Taipo Market, hidden by a hill, but he did notice a stream of junks and sampans sailing into a sheltered haven.

"It was while watching these little ships coming to anchor that I decided to steal a sampan that night and proceed across Mirs Bay by sea, and so cut out many miles of dangerous travel."

He kept himself busy preparing for his night's activity, while keeping an eye on traffic on the road, mainly pedestrian, and this did not cease for about an hour after darkness fell.  He then moved down the road to the railway line and walked along the track to where a steep concrete seawall descended to rocks beside the sea. He used his rope to descend the rocks beside the sea, then stashed his pack, rope and clothes there, after stripping off to swim out into the bay. To his dismay, he found that none of the sampans there had an oar, and he was not able to find a stick or a board that he could use as a paddle.

"By that time it must have been near eleven o'clock, it was raining steadily, a fresh wind was blowing, and I started to shiver violently. There was only one way to cure that, so finding a sheltered place I indulged in a few minutes of strenuous physical exercise to start my blood flowing again."

When he was recovered he decided to swim out to the junk moored farthest out, to see in he could get the owner  to take him across Mirs Bay. The man on board awakened and before he could get his message across, began shouting and jumping up and down showing fierce hostility. When the boatman attempted to crack Goodwin on the head with a piece of timber, he beat a speedy retreat, and swam as fast as he could back to the shore. The noise had awaked the crews of adjoining junks and they threw lengths of timber and shouted threats at him. He was fearful that the Japanese guards onshore would be alerted and fortunately his sense of direction quickly led him to where he had stashed his belongings. Grabbing everything, he pulled himself up to the top of a wall on a wire-stay from a pole, and hurried through the gloom along the railway line and across the road.

"On rounding a bend I had a clear view back over the bay of my unsuccessful adventure, and there was a great uproar in progress, with lanterns flashing everywhere. My nocturnal visit had certainly started something, and vowing never again to seek assistance as long as I could still walk, I hurried on my way."